In the last month I’ve been able to reach the level of Master on BGA in Azul: Summer Pavilion. To celebrate this I decided to write an introductory strategy guide for the 2 player game only. This is not a complete guide. It just lists the most important principles in 2p and gives some examples.
The most important principles
Numbers over colors
The most important principle of Azul: Summer Pavilion is that the amount of tiles you draw compared to your opponent is far more important than color. In 2P each round there are 20 tiles to be divided, so 120 in total. If you outdraw your opponent (62-58 for example) it becomes very unlikely you will lose. Keep track of this. You can easily count the score at any time by counting the tiles you’ve placed on the board + tiles in your hand – bonus tiles collected. Check this several times per game at least, preferably after each round. You need to know whether you’re ahead or behind. So for example after round 3 determine whether it is 28-32 or 31-29 etc. Do not take bonus tiles collected into account while doing this.
Do not prioritize colors over numbers. If you take a tile or tiles because of their color and thereby give your opponent more tiles than they would have otherwise gotten you’ve just made a mistake in almost all situations.
Starting tile
The -1 starting tile is quite valuable. I consider it to be worth 2 tiles on average, meaning that if the tile distribution in a round is 11-9 and the starting player switches to the player getting the 9 tiles, then this is about even. If anything I’d value the -1 starting tile even a little bit higher than 2 tiles. If I go 2nd in a round and am given the choice between getting 9 tiles and gaining the starting player or getting 10 tiles and staying 2nd, I normally prefer 9 tiles and the starting player.
So: never give the starting tile away for free. Exception is the final round. In this case the -1 starting tile has little value.
The negative points from the -1 starting tile are irrelevant. In 100’s of games I’ve never seen a situation where this was relevant. Having the starting player at the beginning of the game is a big advantage.
What to build – Two stars
The main strategy you should be aiming for is to complete 2 stars and 1’s, 2’s and 3’s. Do not go for the multicolor star, since it will give you less points and more importantly less bonus tiles.
With 60 tiles drawn (+12 bonus tiles for 2 windows, 2 statues and 2 pillars) you can get 2 full stars and 1,2, and 3’s. With 59 this is impossible. With 60 this is a bit tricky since you’ll have to end with a tile that does not net you a bonus tile. Your opponent can make good use of this by identifying the bonus tile you still need and take it away from you. With 61 it becomes much more easy though since you can also end with a tile that does net you a bonus tile from a pillar.
Commit to stars early. Try to start with the 5 and 6 asap of the stars you want to finish this game. If you don’t commit early you’ll decrease your chances of finishing both stars. By round 3 it should be crystal clear which stars you’ll complete. If you put down a 4, 5 or 6 early consider yourself committed towards completing that star. Committing and failing in the end should equal losing provided your opponent doesn’t mess up even more.
The color of your stars is relevant, but only in a limited number of scenario’s. I try to stay away from the red star, but if I get a lot of reds very early on, I will go for red as well. If your opponent has higher scoring stars he or she has an advantage, but only in the case where the tile distribution is even (60-60). If you hit your 3’s at the end and he/she doesn’t you’ll still win in almost all cases.
If you are on this strategy and only get 59 in the end try to miss out on a 1 (this would only cost you 7 points in the end)
Carrying wild tiles
In order to finish 2 stars you will need to make good use of wild tiles. Each round try to collect as many tiles as possible that you can use as a wild tile in the round after this one. Ideally take 3 or 4 tiles with you into a new round and use them to complete your stars.
1 star vs 2 stars
A much used alternative strategy would be to go for one star + 1, 2, 3’s and as many additional 4’s as possible.
In the best case scenario where you outdraw your opponent it is still difficult to beat an opponent who completes 2 stars.
For example if you build the purple star, complete all 1's, 2's, and 3's and have 5 additional 4's this will cost you 21+36+20=77 tiles. You'll get 17 bonus tiles (1 window, 6 statues, 2 pillar) but will not be able to use 1 since you'll always end with a tile netting you a bonus tile (so best to end in the middle with a pillar). So you'll at least have to outdraw your opponent 61-59 in this case.
This scenario gives you 21+20 (purple star) + 5x10 (all other outer stars) + 6 (inner star) + 4 (1's) + 8 (2's) +12 (3's) -1 (unusable tile) = 120 points
Let's assume your opponent plays optimally as well and completes 2 mediocre stars (blue and orange for example), 2's and 3's and misses out on the 1's (missing red1 for example). He/she ends with a tile that does not net a bonus tile (for example green1 or green3)
This senario would give him 21 + 17 (orange star) + 21 + 15 (blue star) + 4x6 (purple, green, white and multi stars) + 3 (red star) + 8 (2's) + 12 (3's) = 121 points.
These scores would still need to be adjusted for negative points from the starting tiles, but the example proves that the 1 star strategy is inferior to the 2 star strategy. Using the 1 star strategy you'd need to outdraw your opponent 62-58 or better before you can expect to win against someone using the 2 star strategy.
Most common mistakes
• People sacrificing tiles just because they want a specific color. Complete your stars without doing this. You should only sacrifice tiles in the final round if you’re sure you don’t sabotage yourself and/or actually succeed in keeping your opponent from completing a star or his 3’s. Trying to color screw your opponent giving up tiles can sometimes work but backfires more often than it succeeds. Especially do not do this if you’re already winning.
• People giving away the starting tile for free. It you let your opponent take it, make sure you get at least an extra tile from it.
• People going for the 1-2-3-4 strategy with 0 stars. Every now and then people try this. Don’t do this. You’ll lose. Simple math will show you this. Same for building the multicolor star.
• In the 2 star strategy putting down a 4 for a star you will not complete might seem attractive since it will give you 4 points and 2 extra bonus tiles but it really isn’t. It just makes it much more difficult to complete 2 stars and the 1’s, 2’s and 3’s. You’ll now need to outdraw your opponent by at least 62-58. Only do this if you are at least 3 stones up (43-37 after round 4 for example).
The most important topic not discussed here is how to actually outdraw your opponent. That is an entirely different story. For now that will be for you to explore.
Kind regards,
Blastobeer
The most important principles
Numbers over colors
The most important principle of Azul: Summer Pavilion is that the amount of tiles you draw compared to your opponent is far more important than color. In 2P each round there are 20 tiles to be divided, so 120 in total. If you outdraw your opponent (62-58 for example) it becomes very unlikely you will lose. Keep track of this. You can easily count the score at any time by counting the tiles you’ve placed on the board + tiles in your hand – bonus tiles collected. Check this several times per game at least, preferably after each round. You need to know whether you’re ahead or behind. So for example after round 3 determine whether it is 28-32 or 31-29 etc. Do not take bonus tiles collected into account while doing this.
Do not prioritize colors over numbers. If you take a tile or tiles because of their color and thereby give your opponent more tiles than they would have otherwise gotten you’ve just made a mistake in almost all situations.
Starting tile
The -1 starting tile is quite valuable. I consider it to be worth 2 tiles on average, meaning that if the tile distribution in a round is 11-9 and the starting player switches to the player getting the 9 tiles, then this is about even. If anything I’d value the -1 starting tile even a little bit higher than 2 tiles. If I go 2nd in a round and am given the choice between getting 9 tiles and gaining the starting player or getting 10 tiles and staying 2nd, I normally prefer 9 tiles and the starting player.
So: never give the starting tile away for free. Exception is the final round. In this case the -1 starting tile has little value.
The negative points from the -1 starting tile are irrelevant. In 100’s of games I’ve never seen a situation where this was relevant. Having the starting player at the beginning of the game is a big advantage.
What to build – Two stars
The main strategy you should be aiming for is to complete 2 stars and 1’s, 2’s and 3’s. Do not go for the multicolor star, since it will give you less points and more importantly less bonus tiles.
With 60 tiles drawn (+12 bonus tiles for 2 windows, 2 statues and 2 pillars) you can get 2 full stars and 1,2, and 3’s. With 59 this is impossible. With 60 this is a bit tricky since you’ll have to end with a tile that does not net you a bonus tile. Your opponent can make good use of this by identifying the bonus tile you still need and take it away from you. With 61 it becomes much more easy though since you can also end with a tile that does net you a bonus tile from a pillar.
Commit to stars early. Try to start with the 5 and 6 asap of the stars you want to finish this game. If you don’t commit early you’ll decrease your chances of finishing both stars. By round 3 it should be crystal clear which stars you’ll complete. If you put down a 4, 5 or 6 early consider yourself committed towards completing that star. Committing and failing in the end should equal losing provided your opponent doesn’t mess up even more.
The color of your stars is relevant, but only in a limited number of scenario’s. I try to stay away from the red star, but if I get a lot of reds very early on, I will go for red as well. If your opponent has higher scoring stars he or she has an advantage, but only in the case where the tile distribution is even (60-60). If you hit your 3’s at the end and he/she doesn’t you’ll still win in almost all cases.
If you are on this strategy and only get 59 in the end try to miss out on a 1 (this would only cost you 7 points in the end)
Carrying wild tiles
In order to finish 2 stars you will need to make good use of wild tiles. Each round try to collect as many tiles as possible that you can use as a wild tile in the round after this one. Ideally take 3 or 4 tiles with you into a new round and use them to complete your stars.
1 star vs 2 stars
A much used alternative strategy would be to go for one star + 1, 2, 3’s and as many additional 4’s as possible.
In the best case scenario where you outdraw your opponent it is still difficult to beat an opponent who completes 2 stars.
For example if you build the purple star, complete all 1's, 2's, and 3's and have 5 additional 4's this will cost you 21+36+20=77 tiles. You'll get 17 bonus tiles (1 window, 6 statues, 2 pillar) but will not be able to use 1 since you'll always end with a tile netting you a bonus tile (so best to end in the middle with a pillar). So you'll at least have to outdraw your opponent 61-59 in this case.
This scenario gives you 21+20 (purple star) + 5x10 (all other outer stars) + 6 (inner star) + 4 (1's) + 8 (2's) +12 (3's) -1 (unusable tile) = 120 points
Let's assume your opponent plays optimally as well and completes 2 mediocre stars (blue and orange for example), 2's and 3's and misses out on the 1's (missing red1 for example). He/she ends with a tile that does not net a bonus tile (for example green1 or green3)
This senario would give him 21 + 17 (orange star) + 21 + 15 (blue star) + 4x6 (purple, green, white and multi stars) + 3 (red star) + 8 (2's) + 12 (3's) = 121 points.
These scores would still need to be adjusted for negative points from the starting tiles, but the example proves that the 1 star strategy is inferior to the 2 star strategy. Using the 1 star strategy you'd need to outdraw your opponent 62-58 or better before you can expect to win against someone using the 2 star strategy.
Most common mistakes
• People sacrificing tiles just because they want a specific color. Complete your stars without doing this. You should only sacrifice tiles in the final round if you’re sure you don’t sabotage yourself and/or actually succeed in keeping your opponent from completing a star or his 3’s. Trying to color screw your opponent giving up tiles can sometimes work but backfires more often than it succeeds. Especially do not do this if you’re already winning.
• People giving away the starting tile for free. It you let your opponent take it, make sure you get at least an extra tile from it.
• People going for the 1-2-3-4 strategy with 0 stars. Every now and then people try this. Don’t do this. You’ll lose. Simple math will show you this. Same for building the multicolor star.
• In the 2 star strategy putting down a 4 for a star you will not complete might seem attractive since it will give you 4 points and 2 extra bonus tiles but it really isn’t. It just makes it much more difficult to complete 2 stars and the 1’s, 2’s and 3’s. You’ll now need to outdraw your opponent by at least 62-58. Only do this if you are at least 3 stones up (43-37 after round 4 for example).
The most important topic not discussed here is how to actually outdraw your opponent. That is an entirely different story. For now that will be for you to explore.
Kind regards,
Blastobeer
