I was 300 ELO for 300 games. Now I'm 500 ELO. Here's what I learned

Forum rules
Please DO NOT POST BUGS on this forum. Please report (and vote) bugs on : https://boardgamearena.com/bugs
User avatar
calvaria
Posts: 7
Joined: 22 January 2017, 12:39

I was 300 ELO for 300 games. Now I'm 500 ELO. Here's what I learned

Post by calvaria »

Hi. I wrote down some tips in case it helps anyone, like it would have helped me a while ago. The aim was for the tips to be succint and easy to read. They are also ordered by my perceived importance of them. They are mostly relevant for 1v1, same-map, arena games. Enjoy and let me know what you think.

1. Conservation Projects (CP) are how you get big points. The 3 base CP are one way to do it, but if you find no icons, be on the lookout for releases/animals to release.
- It's a good idea to keep a release or releasable-animal in your hand in case its pair shows up.
- A wolf, secretary bird, white stork, bison, or any iconic animal should be a top priority release.
- When you release, you also get the enclosure back. Plan for that.
- Be careful not to play a handy release for your opponent.

2. Always track your opponent. Assume they will do the best action for themselves, and the most inconveniencing for you. Always. Every turn.
- You don't know their cards, but you know what they snapped and everything else, which is plenty.
- Punish them with well-timed breaks (when they have low income/unused money, cards over the limit, unused workers). And expect to be punished.

3. Learn the pace of the game. Cheap animals -> Medium animals -> Expensive animals.
- Run away from small animal zoo like it's the plague. Small animals won't net you big points and your opponent will out-pace you.
- Your goal for any break (in any order): Exhaust your money on animal(s). Draw your next animal(s). Build for animals and if you can, for income. Play association once, maybe twice. Play a good synergy sponsor or break.
- The most efficiently you do this, the faster you run over your opponent.
- Sponsors (in general), extra cards, extra builds, are all optional depending on what your opponent is doing.
- If your optional actions are better than your opponents, do them. If not, break and repeat. If your opponent is playing many good end-game sponsors, it's because you let them.
- Remembver: The biggest enemy of good is great. Don't try to optimise everything because you won't have the time. Play good animals/break/repeat.

4. Don't do anything without a good plan, but adapt your plans every time a new card is revealed. Give up easily on your current plans if a new plan is better.
- Watch the river religiously. Snap cards from your opponent and use them yourself (if you can).
- If you draw cards randomly (without immediate sunbathing) you automatically lose 100 elo. It is known.

5. Income is king. Keep yours ahead of your opponent, or keep it in line with what animals you want to play.
- You don't need 4/5 kiosks. You only need 1-2 well-placed ones.

6. Plan the start of your game correctly. If you're not the first to take a Uni/Partner-zoo, expect to lose it.
- You can keep 4 cards at the start, but expect to snap one from the river, be it either animal, sponsor, or release.

7. If you take the worker from your 1st CP, you will have to use it. Expect your opponent to rush breaks and punish you.
- Snapping/5-Income are almost always better 1st CP choices.
- People usually underestimate how quickly they can get to 8 Reputation for the extra worker.

8. X-tokens are a must-have for snapping/breaking/association. Consider X-ing actions throughout the game.

9. Support America/Asia/Africa/Species/Continents projects at 2 icons or at 5 icons, because at 4 icons they only give 3CP.
- Support the rest projects at either 2 early, or at 4 or 5 later. If no 5th icon is in sight, support at 4 and move on.

10. Be on the lookout for point bomb animals (tigers, panda, elephants, galapagos tortoise, dugong), for release animals (mentioned above) and for Eagles, Rhinos, sun-bear. Deny for opponent. Keep for a rainy day.

11. Alwasy plan to use the ability of the animals you play (Hunter, Perception, Sunbathing, Pouch, Jumping, etc). Points/Money add up little by little.

12. Asia is the best partner when unsure what to take. Being able to play a top-deck sun bear/panda will win you a game.

13. Expect to be pilfered. If your opponent has a 2-size+america/africa partner (or size-3+water+asia), and are waiting for you to get ahead in appeal, expect to be pilfered. Same goes with constriction/venom. But pilfering can be deadly.

14. Being the first player is a big advantage and there's nothing to do about it.

15. When you play arena, the expel button is part of the game. If you run out of time, expect to be expelled immediately, even if you ask nicely for extra time. Arena = competitive.
ChicoBB13
Posts: 1
Joined: 17 March 2024, 19:51

Re: I was 300 ELO for 300 games. Now I'm 500 ELO. Here's what I learned

Post by ChicoBB13 »

Good read and I can second almost all of it.

Not Sure about 7.) and I would be really interested to read other expert opinions about it. I almost instantly take the worker 1st and only in a few cases do I take 5 or snap
User avatar
JDansp
Posts: 42
Joined: 26 May 2023, 07:22

Re: I was 300 ELO for 300 games. Now I'm 500 ELO. Here's what I learned

Post by JDansp »

ChicoBB13 wrote: 14 May 2024, 19:31 Good read and I can second almost all of it.

Not Sure about 7.) and I would be really interested to read other expert opinions about it. I almost instantly take the worker 1st and only in a few cases do I take 5 or snap

I'm no expert, but yes you get punished against good opponents if you take it as a reward. not really punishable if you get it on 2cp instead of card upgrade.

Heavily disagree on 5) though.
User avatar
howwow90
Posts: 4
Joined: 21 January 2024, 07:27

Re: I was 300 ELO for 300 games. Now I'm 500 ELO. Here's what I learned

Post by howwow90 »

Great post, tyvm. I am in your old 300 ELO shoes right now and trying to improve. Coincidentally the seed of your point 1 re: holding releasable animals was just starting to dawn on me. Instead of instant depression when dealt non-matching starting hands, this is the way forward.
patio-d
Posts: 1
Joined: 15 August 2023, 16:25

Re: I was 300 ELO for 300 games. Now I'm 500 ELO. Here's what I learned

Post by patio-d »

JDansp wrote: 15 May 2024, 16:11
ChicoBB13 wrote: 14 May 2024, 19:31 Good read and I can second almost all of it.

Not Sure about 7.) and I would be really interested to read other expert opinions about it. I almost instantly take the worker 1st and only in a few cases do I take 5 or snap

I'm no expert...
:lol: hopefully we can find a real expert somewhere..
Sara_2024
Posts: 1
Joined: 15 January 2024, 22:01

Re: I was 300 ELO for 300 games. Now I'm 500 ELO. Here's what I learned

Post by Sara_2024 »

JDansp wrote: 15 May 2024, 16:11
ChicoBB13 wrote: 14 May 2024, 19:31 Good read and I can second almost all of it.

Not Sure about 7.) and I would be really interested to read other expert opinions about it. I almost instantly take the worker 1st and only in a few cases do I take 5 or snap

I'm no expert, but yes you get punished against good opponents if you take it as a reward. not really punishable if you get it on 2cp instead of card upgrade.

Heavily disagree on 5) though.
I found this post extremely interesting, and I have been trying out a few of these advices and it is quite useful! As you are not an expert, but a master, I would be very interested in your point of view on income.
oldwhite
Posts: 3
Joined: 02 September 2022, 08:04

Re: I was 300 ELO for 300 games. Now I'm 500 ELO. Here's what I learned

Post by oldwhite »

I am 300 ELO at 20 games. I don’t agree about animal cost and game stage. I think it’s perfectly okay to play a medium cost animal at round 1 and small animals at last round as long as you have reason to do so, and win.
nanospy
Posts: 26
Joined: 15 April 2024, 20:07

Re: I was 300 ELO for 300 games. Now I'm 500 ELO. Here's what I learned

Post by nanospy »

Keeping a release card or releasable animal and hoping for its match is essentially relying on luck. Is this really the best that can be done with a non-matching start hand?
User avatar
howwow90
Posts: 4
Joined: 21 January 2024, 07:27

Re: I was 300 ELO for 300 games. Now I'm 500 ELO. Here's what I learned

Post by howwow90 »

nanospy wrote: 26 May 2024, 19:48 Keeping a release card or releasable animal and hoping for its match is essentially relying on luck. Is this really the best that can be done with a non-matching start hand?
Let's say you drew a non-matching starting hand with a bird release project. There are 255 cards in the deck and 25 bird animal cards. The display will have 6 cards where each will have a 10% chance of being a bird. (Someone who's better at statistics can figure out the chance of >=1 bird in the entire display but it's pretty high.) Granted not every bird will be immediately playable nor optimal to be released. But that's the general idea. Not overly luck-reliant.

Now consider holding 2 release projects or 1 release project and one unrelated releasable animal and chances are you'll find one of their matches soon. Just keep yourself busy with other moderately productive actions in the meantime.
User avatar
calvaria
Posts: 7
Joined: 22 January 2017, 12:39

Re: I was 300 ELO for 300 games. Now I'm 500 ELO. Here's what I learned

Post by calvaria »

oldwhite wrote: 25 May 2024, 00:34 I don’t agree about animal cost and game stage. I think it’s perfectly okay to play a medium cost animal at round 1 and small animals at last round as long as you have reason to do so, and win.
Yes - generally the most you do with your income in the least amount of actions, the better. I agree a koala/red-shanked-douc/american alligator in the first round is a good choice. However I doubt that a small appeal/cost animal will be helpful in the later stages of the game, unless it has some key effect (e.g. sun bear, raccoon, red panda into giant panda, hypnosis/constriction snake, last petting zoo animal)

Likewise, if you save up for an early Elephant/Rhino in the first rounds, you got to be careful about building your income first.
Post Reply

Return to “Ark Nova”