Matchplay and doubling cube learning group

[Tuut Tuut tis Luut]

Hi everyone!

The new backgammon version has clearly had a very mixed reception from the playerbase. And while I can't fix any issues anyone has with the interface. There is one way I can at least help to smooth out the transition a bit.

Since BG has been single point only on BGA for so long. Understandably, many established players here don't have much, if any, experience with the doubling cube.

So I've created a group for anyone to come and learn everything about doubling cube rules and strategy.
(or, obviously if you are familiar with match play already, to come teach and help other's learn).

https://boardgamearena.com/group?id=16394869

I'm thinking we'll start by gathering and sharing some accessible online resources for reading and learning by yourself.

After which, hopefully we'll have enough members to both ask questions, share tips. Maybe even do daily "puzzles" or something.
Anyone is free to join and post. Even if you don't want to join a (new) group. You're free to post questions on the wall without being a member.

Even if you're a strong and high rated player, and might feel like there's not much of a difference besides doubling when ahead. There's much more to it than you might think, you'll benefit greatly from some basic strategy guides.

(e.g. Did you know, current math points, and even the fact you're playing a match game at all. Even greatly changes what your best checker moves are.)

I can understand, being so used to 1-point games. It can seem an unnecessary complication to what should be a simple game. But trust me, if you love backgammon, the cube (or maybe moreso, the multipoint matches and gammons) adds a depth to the game that's going to make 1-point Games seem boring in comparison.
As well as making skill much more of a factor in game outcomes.

Hope to see some of you there soon!

[Fruktstund]

Good initiative!
I understand how this can make the game deeper and more interesting.
But will it effect the ELO?
Have wondered why a gammon or a backgammon victory does not seem to effect the ELO. Where does the extra point go?

[Tuut Tuut tis Luut]

You're right, If you're playing 1 point matches I don't think it makes a difference.

Gammons only come into play when you're playing multi point matches.

You can play single backgammon matches that do include the doubling cube and Gammons/backgammons. That's called a 'money game'. (called that because it's the preferred setup for gambling, where the extra points simply increase the stakes).
But I don't think there's any way you could implement that within BGA elo systems.

[JohnnyCyclops]

Through Arena play I’ve learned to adjust to matchplay and yes, am enjoying it, although what was a brisk 10-12 minutes single game is now a 30-40 minute match (in the current Arena season). That aside I think it’s helpful to have a place for matchplay tips and chat. I’ve found some useful videos and blogs.

Two key takeaways so far. Double when ahead but don’t wait until you’re so far ahead that the outcome is near certain because the opponent will likely refuse the double. Sure, you’ll take the current stake (often a single point) but you’ve missed turning a marginally ahead position into two or more points.

Understand the Crawford rule. My understanding is that if one player gets to within one point of winning the match then the rule kicks it. For the next ONE game only the doubling cube is removed. Why? Because the player behind would simply double on their first move for a chance to win. If I’m behind 0-2 or 1-2 in a three point match then without the Crawford rule I would immediately double in the next game on my first move irrespective of how far the game has gone, so if I win the game we get to 2-2 or 3-2 (match won). With the Crawford rule we play that game for a single point, so if my opponent wins that game they win the match 0-3 or 1-3. If I win that game I’m catching up or level 1-2 or 2-2. The Crawford rule (or Crawford game) applies for one game only after which, if the match continues, the doubling cube is back in play.

Happy to be corrected by wiser heads, but that’s how I’ve come to understand the Crawford rule in recent weeks.

[Tuut Tuut tis Luut]

Two key takeaways so far. Double when ahead but don’t wait until you’re so far ahead that the outcome is near certain because the opponent will likely refuse the double. Sure, you’ll take the current stake (often a single point) but you’ve missed turning a marginally ahead position into two or more points.

That's solid advice indeed. With the small addendum that it's not necessary about how far ahead you are, but specifically how high your gammon chances are. You can be near 100% win chance, but no chance for a gammon. So you'd still double.

Or sometimes, say opp is on the bar, and within a few rolls you'll either close them in fully and likely gammon or they escape and win the race. You might be only slightly ahead, but with a gammon chance almost as high as your total win chance. That's too good to double, despite not being far ahead at all.

As for Crawford, be sure to look into post Crawford stategy as well. Losing player always doubles first chance of course. And winner knows every game will be played for 2. So when L is 2p away, W can pass for free if the opening roll doesn't go their way. And when L is 2 away, W should never pass. Because regardless of wether they pass, or accept and lose, there's still only one round to play after. So they have little to lose by trying

[euklid314]

One other thing: If there are no gammons involved (say endgame with both players already taking off checkers), you are behind, and you recieve a cube you should take it if your winning chances are still at 25% or higher. Otherwise you should pass.
In the very late endgame (e.g. last move) one sometimes can count the number of rolls that save you the game. If they are more than 9 out of 36 you should take the cube.

The motivation behind the 25% can be understood if you consider 4 games with the same game state. If you take the cube 4 times you will lose 3 games for 2 points each and win one game for 2 points - a net loss of -4 points. If you pass the cube 4 times you will also lose -4 points. Taking and passing leads to the same net result at 25% win rate.

This rule of thumb can be quite wrong at certain match scores (the take point can be much lower or higher) and also you might take the cube even below 25% winning chance if the possession of the cube is still valuable for the rest of the game.

[JohnnyCyclops]

Excellent advice, thank you both.