Hanabi : differents conventions [AWW] - eng / fr / it

[AenarionJD]

Hi everyone. Here are different conventions to play Hanabi. After some games, it turns out to be very efficient, though a bit artificial. In the next message, you'll find a translation in French, Also translated in Italian, see further (thanks Jotaro

Chop is still on the topright, excluding clued cards.

Instead of clueing the cards that we want to get played, well clue the position. Two ways :

1) with numbers : clue 1, 2, 3, 4, means play respectively first, second third and fourth card (from left to right)

2) with color : using the color order that stands on the board, which is : red / yellow / green / blue, we also clue the position : for example, cluing yellow means play your second card

Special meaning for 5 and white clue :

a) cluing 5 means : keep the card your about to discard, even if its a blank clue. So if you get 5 clue, your chop moves from one space to the left. If you get another 5 clue, your chop will move again on it's left.

b) cluing white to someone will mean : dont discard anything. We use this when we want to save more than one card, but the consequence is he / she will never discard again. If he / she gets a play within his / her cards, then the chop is the newest.

By mixing color / number, we try to keep only usefull cards, twinless if possible. Someday, thoose cards will become deduced as playable (or maybe discardable). In the spirit of thoose conventions, its ok to try and play a clued card if you have enough infos to know its either playable or useless. At least untill we get 2 bombs ^^

Finesse works the same way, and reverse / bluff could work as well, but you need to be carefull, it needs to make sense that it could be a reverse / is a bluff.

For example, you could bluff out a m1 with a green clue that doesnt color the third card. Is this case, the third card is a 2 step playable card, which is not multi, nor green. This card we be considered as clued and can't belong to the chop anymore.

Enjoy

here is SliceofBread's version for 2P-3P : "Number clues stay the same. clue 1, 2, 3, 4, means play respectively first, second third and fourth card (from left to right) 5 means save your rightmost chop.

Any color is a play clue, red untill white from left to right.

self finesse could be very usefull in 2P, but should be disabled if the person has to clue : full hand or 7-8 tokens. This way its easier to give a nonsense clue.

2p version is freewin if played well in my experience.

Please feel free to correct my english mistakes

[AenarionJD]

les conventions en Français :

comme toujours on défause à droite, et on garde les cartes indicées.

L'idée est que les indices donnés ne désignent plus les cartes qu'on veut faire jouer, mais la position des cartes qu'on veut faire jouer. Il y a deux façons de faire :

1) avec les nombres de manière assez naturelle : si je reçois un indice 2, c'est pour que je joue ma deuxième carte (en partant de la gauche)

2) avec les couleurs, en utilisant l'ordre dans lequel les cartes sont posées sur la table : si je reçois un indice bleu, c'est pour que je joue ma quatrième carte (l'ordre des couleurs est : rouge, jaune, vert, bleu)

du coup, il nous reste blanc et 5 pour les indices de sauvegarde :

a) si je reçois un indice 5 (même vide) mon chop se décale d'un cran à gauche : ça veut dire : ne défausse pas ta « dernière carte »

b) si je reçois un indice blanc, je dois sauvegarder toute mes cartes. Si à un moment je joue une de mes cartes, mon chop est la carte que je pioche à ce moment.

Du coup, à force de donner des indices, on garde certaines cartes. L'idée est de ne garder que des cartes utiles en mixant couleur / nombre, et de laisser autant d'info collatérales que possible. A un moment donnée, grâce aux indice donnés, ces cartes stockées deviendront jouables, ou alors on comprendra qu'elle ne servent pas. Dans ce mode de jeu, ça vaut le coup de tenter de jouer une carte stockée si on est sur qu'elle est soit jouable, soit inutile, en partant du principe qu'on ne me l'aurait pas faite stocker pour rien. Enfin ! Au moins jusqu'à ce qu'on ait bombé deux fois :p


on peut bien sur faire des finesses de la même façon…

on peut bien sur faire des reverses… sauf que il faut que l'indice donné laisse penser que ça pourrait être une reverse, c'est moins évident !

On peut bien sur faire des bluffs… sauf que, pareil, les indices doivent suffir pour déduire que c'est un bluff ! Par exemple, un indice 3 qui fait poser un 2, alors que la troisième carte n'est vraisemblablement pas un 3, ça passe. D’ailleurs on sait maintenant que sa troisième carte est à deux étapes d'être jouée, et que c'est pas un trois. Cette fameuse troisième carte est considérée comme indicée : elle ne peut plus faire partie du chop !

voilà !

variante 2-3P, trouvée par SliceOfBread, et extrêmement efficace : 1234 sont pour les 4 premières cartes y g b w pour les 4 dernières (toujours de gauche à droite) l'indice 5 reste inchangé, et l'indice rouge remplace l'indice blanc pour sauver tout le jeu.

[Hey_Teacher]

I found this convention very effective. Thank you for writing it down.

[barakeel]

I really want to try it , I thought about something similar but not as developed.

[beri]

Sounds like "Just code bots and let them play".

[jotaro]

ITALIANO

Ciao a tutti. Ci sono diverse convenzioni per giocare Hanabi. Eccone una nuova. Dopo alcuni giochi, risulta essere molto efficiente, anche se un po' artificiale.

La zona chop card, la carta (o le carte) da non scartare, è quella all'estrema destra come al solito (escludendo quelle già indicate con altri indizi).

ECCO LA NOVITÀ

Invece di dare indizi alle carte che vogliamo far giocare, gli indizi vanno dati in base alla posizione. Questo può essere fatto in 2 modi:

1) con i numeri: gli indizi 1, 2, 3, 4, significano giocare, rispettivamente la prima, la seconda, la terza e la quarta carta (da sinistra a destra)

2) con il colore: con l'ordine dei colori che si trova sul bordo, che è: rosso / giallo / verde / blu, abbiamo anche indizio della posizione: per esempio, dando l'indizio rosso giochiamo la prima carta, con il giallo giochiamo la seconda carta, con il verde la terza, con il blu la quarta.

Significato speciale per 5 e indizio bianco:

a) dare l'indizio 5: significa "tieni la carta più a destra, non scartarla!" Anche se dando l'indizio non viene indicato nulla. Quindi, se si ottiene 5 come indizio, la tua area chop (prossimo scarto) si sposta di uno spazio a sinistra. Se ricevi un altro indizio 5, si sposta di un altro ancora (qui serve una buona memoria).

b) dare l'indizio bianco a qualcuno significherà: non scartare nulla. Usiamo questo quando vogliamo salvare più di una carta, ma la conseguenza è che il giocatore non scarterà più.

Nello spirito di queste convenzioni, Finesse funziona allo stesso modo, e reverse / bluff potrebbe anche funzionare ma bisogna stare molto attenti e avere una buona memoria.

Questa modalità si può GIOCARE SOLO in 4-5 giocatori

[Sliceofbread]

Very interesting. What do you do when there is nothing to do? (There's nothing that can be played and you don't want to save anything.) You can always force a bomb but not with 2 bombs.

[pikiou]

Really fun convention, thank you for writing it down! On a fairly easy deck we made it to 30 without making too many mistakes.
I'd love to know for certain if this convention is better than normal play, as it has a lot of potential! I'll ask the author of Hanabi if I see him this weekend ^^

Sliceofbread when your scenario happens you can always use the 5 clue to save a 2 or 3 for later even if their twin card hasn't been discarded yet.

To push the effectiveness and complexity/fun of the convention further, you could change the meaning of the clues as the game progresses so that there is a rotation in colors (since you rarely clue white, it is less likely to be finessed) and so that the number clue for the leftmost card gradually changes from 2 to 4 in order to match what would most be played at the time, as well as help save crucial 2s and 3s at the beginning ^^

[AenarionJD]

Sounds like "Just code bots and let them play".

yeah, there are blind plays, but the bot's work to give the best clue, choose wether he's the one that should give it, keep negative clue memory of everything given, and of all that ppl should have deduced, and figure out the buffs / reverse isnt really easy to do

[Sliceofbread]

Instead of clueing the cards that we want to get played, well clue the position. Two ways :

1) with numbers : clue 1, 2, 3, 4, means play respectively first, second third and fourth card (from left to right)

2) with color : using the color order that stands on the board, which is : red / yellow / green / blue, we also clue the position : for example, cluing yellow means play your second card

Special meaning for 5 and white clue :

a) cluing 5 means : keep the card your about to discard, even if its a blank clue. So if you get 5 clue, your chop moves from one space to the left. If you get another 5 clue, your chop will move again on it's left.

b) cluing white to someone will mean : dont discard anything. We use this when we want to save more than one card, but the consequence is he / she will never discard again. If he / she gets a play within his / her cards, then the chop is the newest.

My suggestion for 2/3 players:
Number clues stay the same. clue 1, 2, 3, 4, means play respectively first, second third and fourth card (from left to right) 5 means save your rightmost chop.

For colors, go the opposite direction: white means play first card from the _right_, blue, second from the right, etc. Red means do not discard anything (same as white in 4/5 player games).

Who wants to try 2P with me?