Woodpecker wipes out Dove's value in sustaining the egg payment as a solo wetlander by making the eggs themself, not to mention the awkward issue of Dove only giving the gg after the wetland, meaning it won't work the first time unless you get an egg elsewhere. At that point even if you got Dove it's better in the forest where it would make more eggs than in the wetland, and using one of the wetland birds in the opening as your wetlander, the strong forest justifying the expense.FrankJones wrote: ↑25 May 2025, 22:57 There are a lot of options in that game indeed. I wonder - should the Chickadee be a priority? My concern is getting a good wetland bird down. The Mourning dove is big. Placed in the wetland, it sets up a self-generating 2-card draw until a second wetland bird is found and the egg no longer needs to be given up. The Chickadee is big with the Pileated Woodpecker, but if the opponent draws the Dove and no wetland bird comes out, it could result in a long frustrating slog to get the wetland going.
[Edit - I just played through each player's first turn, and that's exactly what happened.]
[Second edit - without the woodpecker, how important is the chickadee? I think the Mourning dove was the right choice. The Chickadee is no help toward the bonus card and minimally helpful toward the end-round goals. And with an empty hand, a wetland bird should be first priority.
Somewhere around move 74 you gained food, but took no grain, even though you need 5 grain. I'm not sure grabbing all four of those grassland-only birds was wise. It's frustrating drawing two bad bonus cards, and playing inefficient birds (such as the Inca dove) just to meet the bonus will somewhat offset the reward for meeting the high bonus.
I'll refrain from further analysis until the OP responds. In half of these "I need help" posts, the OP is never heard from again.
Without Woodpecker Dove is still a better forest bird, again even a meh wetlander is better here, especially in light of how much food gets kept. At this point you could even choose to draw the Wren and accept that even if the opponent hard drew dove that getting Chickadee and another card still left you with 2 forest birds, whatever wetlander you kept, and a spare card to boot, which is a passable opening, though you may prefer getting Dove and snatching your other forest bird later.
Though I suspect your "without Woodpecker" wasn't actually just no Woodpecker but picking up where the OP left off in having no hand, in which case Dove is who you get to carry the hand as a standalone wetlander. Ideally, you'd get Wren and draw into Dove and Chickadee, but your opponent is likely to hard draw Dove and possibly leave you stranded in the wetland if you tried to pull that.
Bonus cards are nice, but they're an endgame concern you worry about as the game is progressing. While they can be helpful in scoring, there's a lot of stuff you should worry about first.Archisian wrote: ↑26 May 2025, 00:38 Thanks for all the replies, everyone.
So, it seems more that I'm not understanding the certain usefulness of the cards and I'm too focused on bonus cards?
Admittedly, getting bad bonus cards worries me a lot, because I can't be certain of the bonus cards my opponent has. So, I try my best to follow the conditions while trying to be flexible. But, seeing as how it doesn't help me win, it might just come down to me not seeing which cards are more useful that others.
That is not my favorite hand, to say the least. Grasshopper Sparrow is the only good card. However, the best card in your hand is actually the Great Egret, which is actually a really good mid to late game card but in this case is going to serve as a trashy wetland starter with no effect. We are dealing with the surreal situation that it trumps the Warbler because unlike Warbler it doesn't overlap with your Sparrow, so you can open with a wheat for Sparrow and a fish+rat for Egret, using your gain foot to grab fish #2. So it takes less time than any other wetland option to get both birds played, which trumps Warbler being worth 1 extra point, having 1 extra egg slot, and its cavity nest being superior due to round 2's goal. Golden Eagle doesn't have the food overlap, but it being triple rodent poses a similar food issue that trumps it actually having an effect. Alternatively you might give up on sparrow for one extra bit of food, which would let you play either Eagle for the effect or Warbler for the nest/extra speed instead of Egret.Archisian wrote: ↑26 May 2025, 00:59 Here's my most recent game. What could I have done in the game to have improved my odds?
https://boardgamearena.com/table?table=678490594
In the early game, you need to make sure you can actually play. That means having birds to play, food to play them with, and eggs that are used as payment to play birds and draw extra cards in the wetland instead of being used for points in the end game. The first priority is having birds, meaning setting up a wetland to draw birds, since with that you might draw into birds for the forest and grassland. In this case, that means you had to pick at least 1 wetland bird, which you then play, adds eggs to, then use those eggs as payment to draw 1 extra card using the wetland exchange option of 1 egg for 1 card when you have an odd number of wetland birds. Sparrow helps with the egg quantity, but you're basically just praying to draw something. Not ideal, but it means you have a chance. Your goal from there is to get a food system set up, most commonly getting forest birds, the first forest bird might even result in you discarding from hand for 2 food using any dead draws. I would not blame you for losing this game, but not ensuring you have a draw engine at the start of the game when available is something you do not let happen in all but the most extreme scenarios.
There are many variations of acceptable opening hands I could live with, but they all require that you not only immediately draw American Crow like you did, but also that you keep Lincoln's Sparrow. As I mentioned for the other replay, you need a way to get cards, which is usually a wetland bird's job. Lincoln Sparrow not only does that, but since it can move between rows, it can go into the grassland with American Crow and let you lay 3 eggs instead of 2 before going back to the wetland. American Crow can actually let you go without the forest for food at all, but there's a world where you keep the Red-Bellied Woodpecker anyways and move Lincoln's Sparrow into the forest so you can use it to gain 2 food in a turn plus a potential wheat or point when you need to speed up your food play to support your slow but steady American Crow option in the Grassland. Lincoln's Sparrow ability to keep moving between rows is essential to your options. It also helps your round 1 goal of birds in grassland and round 2 goal of egg containing ground nests.Archisian wrote: ↑26 May 2025, 01:21 And here's another one. Another loss like usual. I just get absolutely decimated. My brain is hurting trying to understand what I'm missing. I feel like I'm an idiot because I'm apparently not seeing what others are.
https://boardgamearena.com/table?table=678499339
To repeat this again, you absolutely must prioritize having a way to draw more cards as the #1 thing to accomplish in the early game 99% of the time. 1 wetland bird to enable paying an egg to draw 2 cards instead of 1 is key. If you only draw 1 card per wetland play, then you're at a severe handicap where your opponents will keep drawing more and better cards game after game, making it impossible for you to keep up. There are several other skills involved in Wingspan, but if you don't get a basic draw engine going you won't get the chance for these things to even matter because you won't have the cards for it. You don't have to actually play said wetland bird first, if you already have both forest birds and wetland bird you can play the forest birds first and use them to get the food for the wetland bird, but making sure the wetland bird is in your hand first is key.